牛仔裤我是用家而不是所谓的玩家，不过也留意这个主题好久了。今天，一口气到手了两条 Evisu Genes <Jeans?!> ( http://www.Evisu.com )，兴致特别高。Evisu，从用料到制作，可谓体现了日本人追求尽善尽美的精神，对细节的注重几达极致 (除了 Post Script 的介绍外，还有后袋钱包部位的双层加强设计，不仔细看看不出的双缝线，手绘 logo <会随着使用而部分剥落，这是真货和假货之间的重大差别之一> 等等细节)。只有微距把玩它们，才能真正体验它们与通路 (快速 ...) 消费品式的大众品牌之间的巨大差异。据说 Evisu 在上海也开了一家专卖店，上海的朋友不妨去看看。连同日前请产品主供消防用的镀锌钢管厂的师傅按照我的要求制作的 DIY 裤架一并呈上。
我穿的牛仔裤牌子很杂：Fcuk, Wrangler, Caterpillar, E.O., Guess, Parasuco, etc. ... 都有，不过我较不喜欢 Levi's ...
P.S.: What makes Evisu special (摘自 Evisu 官方网站)：
Evisu has spent the last 10 years developing their jeans to be as authentic as today's vintage jeans can be. All Evisu jeans are made of vintage selvedge denim. This means that the denim is made on old style shuttle looms rather than modern projectile looms. In simple terms this means that the cross thread in the weaving process goes back and forth during the weaving process. But modern looms, shoot each cross thread through individually, hence the edge of the cloth is frayed rather than clean (although brands who are only interested in making quick money, try to cash in by faking the smooth selvedge by stitching up the frayed edge afterwards). No shuttle looms have be made for over 40 years as they can only make cloth about 30 inches wide whereas projectile looms can make fabric 60 inches or even wider for much less money. All the looms that make Evisu denim are practically antiques and about as reliable as a 50 year old car. Because the fabric made on these looms is so narrow we need approximately 3 yards to make each pair of jeans. To maximise the usage, the traditional method was to have a straight outside seam and cut right up to the selvedge so that when you turn the jean up you see the two selvedge edges of the denim stitched together. You can also see it on the inside of the coin pocket.Also, all of our denim is indigo dyed by loop dying machines. Again, these are rare and ancient machines which basically feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out and up to the roof of the factory to allow the indigo to oxidise before the 'rope' goes back down into the next vat. Evisu denim has a minimum of 16 dips and some styles have 30 dips, hence the deep blue colour.We use 100cotton threads which are more authentic but break more easily during the sewing process. We reproduce the original production techniques at every stage. This means using a large number of specialist sewing machines which have not been produced for many years. For example, we chain stitch the hem which gives the thick stitch line visible around the hem when you turn the jean up. This requires a special machine which again has not been produced for 40 years. Wherever possible we try to use Union Special machines which were the Rolls Royce of sewing machines in the US in the fifties. Many of our styles then have the logo hand painted on. As a result of all this and a host of other details relating to every raw material and process our jeans cost many times the price of normal jeans to produce. From what I understand other jeans companies make much larger profit margins than we do.All this obviously leads to the next question: why do we bother? In simple terms it is the result of the Japanese fascination with details and because everybody associated with Evisu from Mr. Yamane (the Japanese owner of Evisu) down are denim 'maniacs'. This is Yamane's term by which he means something like having obsessive, almost trainspottery love for denim. Denim produced on shuttle looms is naturally irregular and these irregularities come out as the jeans fade, making every pair develop into a unique and beautiful pattern as it fades. The deep blue colour and the way the jeans fade can only be achieved by using the loop dying system and all the other details give the jeans a combination of authenticity and the knowledge that you have something that is a labour of love that no other jeans or probably any other item of clothing, in the world can give you.We understand that for many people these things are not important but for those who appreciate this level of craftsmanship, we believe Evisu jeans are worth every penny.
[此贴子已经被LeslieNg于2005-6-30 4:35:19编辑过]
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发表于 2004-10-4 13:21:51
EVI,第五街.............
楼主
发表于 2004-10-5 13:41:29
发表于 2005-6-30 04:35:19
