轉載 danpipe.com 的開斗方法/打字很累待會兒才譯呵
It happens now and then that burnt pipes are complained about to us or the manufacturers. In a large number of cases damage is not caused by material defects but by the owner's handling of his pipe. For this reason we have found it appropriate to give you some hints and explanations on this matter.Every briar pipe requires to be broken in, this also goes for pipes with a pre-coated tobacco hole. One of the main characteristics of any kind of wood is: it is inflammable, and briar is in no way an exception. To break in a pipe means nothing but to get the briar accustomed to the heat of glowing tobacco in the bowl. This is mainly achieved by gradually building up a carbon layer composed of tobacco ashes and tars which provides a rather effective protection to the briar. Still, burning the surface of the wood inside the bowl to some extent is inevitable. To keep this erosive process at a lowest possible level it is most important to puff and drag most carefully and gently during the first ten of fifteen fills.
In accordance with the important contemporary pipe producers we recommend to smoke a new pipe with the bowl three quarters or completely full. The tobacco should be filled in loosely and only be gently stuffed before being lit. During the course of smoking the ashes on top should only be very gently pressed down (more like stroking) to keep the tobacco burning evenly. It is certainly not wrong to break in pipes "in the traditional way" with the bowl at first only quarter full, then half and finally full. but this old method requires much more caution and bears risks not to be played down. In a bowl only sparsely full, the heat tends to spread out unevenly which causes increasing tensions in the wood between the bool top and the hot bottom part of the bowl. This might result in the hairline cracks which might later become a starting point for more severe burns. Small quantities of tobacco are less easy to light and they required more intense and permanent puffing to keep the tobacco burning, which again means fanning the glowing ashes.
Should your pipe be overheated (it hurts when you hold the bowl to the back of your hand) you best put it aside and let it cool down completely. You can then relight it and carefully continue smoking. Any nastily bitter taste or smell coming up definitely indicates that you have begun to severely burn in the wood. In this case, stop at once, let the pipe go out and allow it to cool down. Then gently ream out ashes and tobacco (take care not to scrape too hard into the sides of the bowl) and check the interior of the bowl for possible burns. If noticed in time and not neglected these mostly superficial burns can effectively be mended and the pipe can then be used again without any negative effects on its smoking qualities or taste. Anyone who tortures his pipe by constant hard puffing (for gear to let the fire go out) will risk deep burns and even fatal damage.
Always smoke the tobacco as far down as possible still avoiding to tease the pipe in order to turn to ashes even the last tiny crumb of tobacco. But remember: a pipe constantly being smoked only half way down and/or too often in too short periods of time will soon accumulate lots of moist and tars in the bottom part of the bowl and in the stem. The briar will become soaking wet and the pipe will finally create its own special smell and stench that reminds us less of nice tobacco than of sun-exposed garbage cans (which will the be the best place for it).
Filter pipes require even more attention during their breaking-in period, as the filter down not only obstruct the pipe's draught to a certain extent but also suppresses some of the tobacco's aroma, especially the more bitter components. This, of course means that also clues of burning wood can no longer be easily detected by taste. Thus heat control by periodically grasping the bowl firmly with your hand is even more important with filter pipes.
Last, but not least the consistency of your tobacco is of quite some important. If too damp, it is hard to be set alight and requires excessive puffing to be kept burning, if too dry it will burn down too fast. In both cases the result is the same: the pipe will overhear, the smoker has no real control of his pipe and will risk damage.
[ 轉載自 www.danpipe.com ]
[ 原連結 www.danpipe.com/break-in.html ] 期待中文翻译，谢谢。 谢谢楼主分享 希望好事做到底 早点翻译了
是一個比較少聽說的開斗理論呵 / 譯得很累呢錯了請更正
近年有些燒斗的客戶投訴我們(DanPipe)或煙斗制造商。在大多的情況中,煙斗的損壞並不是因為用料的缺陷，而是由斗主使用煙斗的方法。基於這個原因，我們認為有需要給你們一些適當的提示和說明這個問題。每個石楠木煙斗都須要開斗的，這也包括有做預炭層的斗。任何木材都有一個特點：它是易燃的! 石楠木絕不例外。開斗是要讓石楠木適應在斗缽燃燒的煙草之熱力，除此之外沒有特殊意義。主要是實現於逐步由煙灰及焦油建立的一個碳層，如此對石楠木提供了相當有效的保護。然而，於斗缽中一定程度燃燒木材的表面是不可避免的。為了使這種侵蝕過程減致最低的水平，最重要的是在首10至15斗煙，輕吹慢抽。
按照當今重要的煙斗生產者之意見，我們建議抽一個新斗( 開斗 )時抽四分之三斗或一整斗。煙草應填充鬆散，只在燃點之前輕輕的壓( 碰 )一下。在抽的過程中，面層的煙灰應該只是很輕輕按下（更像撫摸），以確保煙草燃燒均勻。用“傳統方式”開斗當然沒有錯，最初4分之一斗，然後半斗，最後一整斗。但這個老方法需要十分謹慎和不能低估存在的風險。如果煙草太少，斗身的熱力傳導趨於不均勻，導致缽口和缽底的熱漲冷縮不平均。這可能導致出現細小裂紋，更可能成為燒斗的起源。再者，少量的煙草不但難於燃點，更需不斷的吸和吹去保持煙草燃燒，意味著令燃燒溫度升高。
如果你的煙斗已經過熱（當把煙斗貼到手背時感到痛楚時），你最好把它放在一邊讓它完全冷卻。然後，您可以重新點燃，小心翼翼的繼續抽。如有臭的苦味或氣味來了，就表明您的斗缽已經開始嚴重的燃燒。在這種情況下，立即停止，由煙草熄滅，並讓它冷卻下來。然後輕輕地把煙灰及煙草（注意不要太大力的刮傷斗缽），並檢查缽內可能有燒斗情況的位置。如來得及發現，並修補這些表面的燒傷，煙斗可以再次使用，對其吸煙的素質和味道是沒有任何負面影響的。任何人透過狂吹猛吸去折磨他自己的煙斗（像想把大火吹熄那樣子）將遵至嚴重燒斗，甚至致命( 亡斗 ) 的傷害。
雖然每次都應該盡量抽斗抽到底，但是要避免抽到最後一根煙絲都要使之化成灰去欺負你的煙斗。記住：一只斗不斷的只抽半斗和 / 或於短時間抽太多斗就會累積大量的水氣和焦油在缽底和煙咀。石楠木會過濕，最終散發惡臭，提醒我們好的煙草比堆填區中的垃圾罐來得要少（堆填區會是那只斗最合適的地方）。
使用過濾芯的煙斗開斗時需要更加小心，濾芯不但阻礙煙斗中的氣流，在一定程度上也過濾了一些煙草的香味，特別是苦的味道。這當然也意味著木材燃燒了的線索再也不能輕易透過味覺檢測到。因此對於使用過濾芯的煙斗，定時牢牢的握住你的煙斗去控制 / 感測煙斗的溫度比沒有使用濾芯的煙更為重要的。
最後但並非最不重要的，是你抽的煙草的狀態。如果太濕，不但難於燃點，並要更頻密的吹吸去保持燃燒。如果過於乾燥，則會燃燒過快。這兩種情況導致的結果是一樣的：斗身會過熱，吸斗者沒法真正的控制他的斗，而有傷害煙斗的風險。 感谢楼主辛苦了 感谢kanok兄引荐并翻译此文。
一切玩具，无违乎物理学基本原理。文中所抽3/4及以上草填量的说法及依据，深以为燃。
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